Safari journal

Field notes from the bush

Guides' stories, honest planning advice, and the occasional contrarian take written by the people who actually lead the safaris.

Wildebeest crossing the Mara River
Featured
Wildlife

The best time to see the Great Migration (and why it isn't August)

Everyone books August. The truth is more nuanced and the best window depends on whether you want river crossings, calving, or fewer vehicles.

7 min readJun 12, 2026
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More from the journal

Safari vehicle in the bushTrip Planning

The only safari packing list you need (from a guide who lives out of a duffel)

Forget the 40-item checklists. Here's what our guides actually carry on a 10-day Kenya–Tanzania circuit, and what you can leave at home.

May 28, 2026 6 min
Bwindi Impenetrable ForestPrimates

Gorilla trekking in Bwindi: a first-timer's honest guide

What the permit costs, how fit you actually need to be, and the one thing every first-timer gets wrong about the trek.

Sep 14, 2026 8 min
Guide and vehicle at golden hourBehind the Scenes

Why we only run private safaris (and always will)

Group tours are cheaper for a reason. A candid look at what changes when your guide works for you, not for the vehicle.

Aug 22, 2026 5 min
Elephants at a watering holeConservation

What responsible safari tourism actually looks like (and what it doesn't)

Everyone advertises "eco-friendly safaris". Here's how to tell the real thing from the marketing and the three questions to ask any operator before you book.

Sep 3, 2026 6 min