Gorilla trekking is one of the few wildlife experiences that genuinely lives up to the hype. It also has the most misinformation of any safari activity. This is the version I wish I'd read before my first trek in 2018.
The permit
Uganda gorilla permits are $800 per person per trek, effective 2024. Rwanda is $1,500. Both are non-negotiable, non-refundable, and sell out 6–9 months ahead for peak season. Anyone quoting you a "discounted" permit is either selling you a fake or bundling it into an inflated package. Book direct through the Uganda Wildlife Authority or through your operator, and confirm the permit number before you pay.
“The trek is not a walk. It is a hike through a rainforest at 2,300m, and the guides cut the path as they go. Being honest with yourself about fitness is the single biggest factor in whether you enjoy it.”
How fit do you need to be?
The trek length depends on where the family is on that day anywhere from 30 minutes to 6+ hours of walking. Porters can carry your daypack for $20, and hiring one is not a sign of weakness; it's a direct contribution to the local economy. Bring gloves (stinging nettles are everywhere), long pants, and good boots. Don't underestimate the altitude.
What nobody tells you
- You get one hour with the gorillas. It goes in five minutes. Put the camera down for the first ten minutes actually watch them.
- The silverback will decide whether you're allowed close. If he moves toward you, you move back. That's the rule, not a suggestion.
- Book two permits on the same trip if you're serious about photography. The second trek is always better than the first.
- Buhoma is the busiest trailhead. Nkuringo is steeper but quieter worth the extra hour of driving.
If you're considering Rwanda vs Uganda: Uganda has more habituated families, more camps, and slightly cheaper permits. Rwanda has closer lodges to the trailhead and a shorter drive from Kigali. Both are extraordinary. Neither is a bargain.
